HUITLACOCHE, THE NEW TRUFFLE ON THE BLOCK
A few years back I took a friend of mine to Echopark to have some Huitlacoche Quesadillas. His reaction to the blue corn tortillas wasn't what I expected from a local foodie. He asked the Lady about the blue corn tortillas. Have they gone bad? Why are they blue? Is that fungus? Isn't fungus on corn bad?
Then he proceeded to inform her that here in the US we don't eat things that have Fungus growing on them, or have gone bad.
I was embarrassed to even look at the Lady who was gazing in my direction like asking why the hell did you bring this Pocho?
I turned to him in her defense, What are you talking about Joey? You like Korean BBQ, what do you think the Kimchi is? You like Escabeche! you like Curtido! where did you get the idea we don't eat stuff gone bad (to American standards)? I believe he was talking out of fear for the Smut.
We had quite a heated discussion about it until I called him out on it. You are afraid of the Huitlacoche aren't you? Nooo! he responded like a school yard child in an argument. It went back and forth for a minute or two, he had no comeback to humans not eating "stuff gone bad" (In case you are reading this Joey, So you can understand) there were too many examples just with Native cuisine alone (Native American, Mexican, Salvadorean, Nicaraguan, Guatemalan, etc,.) not to mention the awesome Korean BBQ Kimchi and the Japanese Bonito Flakes and the famous and exciting Balut.
Finally we got to ordering the Quesadillas, two for me one for him. I added all the fixings the Lady had to offer, including Nopales frescos. A form of cactus that grows wild all over Mexico, especially in Zacatecas were I hail from. She had three types of Salsas from Very Hot to Hot to Medium.
Joey took the first bite with closed eyes. Hesitant, almost hating the fact that I took him out of his comfort zone. His eyes were shut tight in a squeeze and he had almost a frown. His mouth didn't quite open enough to get a good bite, typical Pocho wanted a fork and a knife. But just as quickly as he had shut his eyes, He opened them wide and big, looked at me and just hmmm'd in my direction. The second bite was more adequate for what he was eating, a pretty big quesadilla that you eat with your hands. He didn't say a word until he finished it and a weird twist he licked the plate that had some corn smut juice still on it.
Oh Lord! he said, This isn't bad. Just as I was about to order him another one, he beat me to it and ordered himself. I guess the moral of the story is shut yo mouth until you try it. Then and only then can you run your mouth about what you thought, not a moment sooner. I am proud of Joey, who's name isn't really Joey, it's Cesar. I thought it best not to disclose his real name since he thinks I use him quite often to make a point. Oh shit I said Cesar, well at least I didn't tell you his last name is Myer. Ooooops, Sorry Cesar.
Huitlacoche is served all over in Zacatecas typically in quesadillas, We also make a mole out of it and brothers and sisters it's decadent. Truffles are and have been prized all over fine kitchens for their earthy flavor. Huitlacoche is not as pricey as let say Italian truffles or the Alba white truffle, It's getting there but only because of it's new found fan base in wise kitchens that know a new flavor can be exploited and appreciated regardless of it's humble origins. More and more growers are working towards making whole crops bloom with huitlacoche. In the past Huitlacoche was like a gem found amongst all the mazorcas grown. Now we actually want all the crop to be infected. Growing the corn takes about 60 - 100 days and it is grown twice a year. My grandparents would also grow beans from the same fields, this is important because of the nutrients the corn takes the beans give and vice versa. Huitlacoche is not a type of corn, it is a corn that was infected with a parasitic fungus that swells the corn and produces the bluish blackish color that errupts at the top. Next time you see it, don't fear it, don't be put off by it's color, Embrace it, taste it, it isn't called "Mole de los Dioses" for no reason.
Then he proceeded to inform her that here in the US we don't eat things that have Fungus growing on them, or have gone bad.
I was embarrassed to even look at the Lady who was gazing in my direction like asking why the hell did you bring this Pocho?
I turned to him in her defense, What are you talking about Joey? You like Korean BBQ, what do you think the Kimchi is? You like Escabeche! you like Curtido! where did you get the idea we don't eat stuff gone bad (to American standards)? I believe he was talking out of fear for the Smut.
We had quite a heated discussion about it until I called him out on it. You are afraid of the Huitlacoche aren't you? Nooo! he responded like a school yard child in an argument. It went back and forth for a minute or two, he had no comeback to humans not eating "stuff gone bad" (In case you are reading this Joey, So you can understand) there were too many examples just with Native cuisine alone (Native American, Mexican, Salvadorean, Nicaraguan, Guatemalan, etc,.) not to mention the awesome Korean BBQ Kimchi and the Japanese Bonito Flakes and the famous and exciting Balut.
Finally we got to ordering the Quesadillas, two for me one for him. I added all the fixings the Lady had to offer, including Nopales frescos. A form of cactus that grows wild all over Mexico, especially in Zacatecas were I hail from. She had three types of Salsas from Very Hot to Hot to Medium.
Joey took the first bite with closed eyes. Hesitant, almost hating the fact that I took him out of his comfort zone. His eyes were shut tight in a squeeze and he had almost a frown. His mouth didn't quite open enough to get a good bite, typical Pocho wanted a fork and a knife. But just as quickly as he had shut his eyes, He opened them wide and big, looked at me and just hmmm'd in my direction. The second bite was more adequate for what he was eating, a pretty big quesadilla that you eat with your hands. He didn't say a word until he finished it and a weird twist he licked the plate that had some corn smut juice still on it.
Oh Lord! he said, This isn't bad. Just as I was about to order him another one, he beat me to it and ordered himself. I guess the moral of the story is shut yo mouth until you try it. Then and only then can you run your mouth about what you thought, not a moment sooner. I am proud of Joey, who's name isn't really Joey, it's Cesar. I thought it best not to disclose his real name since he thinks I use him quite often to make a point. Oh shit I said Cesar, well at least I didn't tell you his last name is Myer. Ooooops, Sorry Cesar.
Huitlacoche is served all over in Zacatecas typically in quesadillas, We also make a mole out of it and brothers and sisters it's decadent. Truffles are and have been prized all over fine kitchens for their earthy flavor. Huitlacoche is not as pricey as let say Italian truffles or the Alba white truffle, It's getting there but only because of it's new found fan base in wise kitchens that know a new flavor can be exploited and appreciated regardless of it's humble origins. More and more growers are working towards making whole crops bloom with huitlacoche. In the past Huitlacoche was like a gem found amongst all the mazorcas grown. Now we actually want all the crop to be infected. Growing the corn takes about 60 - 100 days and it is grown twice a year. My grandparents would also grow beans from the same fields, this is important because of the nutrients the corn takes the beans give and vice versa. Huitlacoche is not a type of corn, it is a corn that was infected with a parasitic fungus that swells the corn and produces the bluish blackish color that errupts at the top. Next time you see it, don't fear it, don't be put off by it's color, Embrace it, taste it, it isn't called "Mole de los Dioses" for no reason.
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